How to use option bot
If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag. This App connects Thingiverse with Makeprintable, a cloud-based mesh repair service that analyzes, validates and repairs most common mesh errors that can occur when preparing a 3D design file for p. With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D. Please Login to Comment Hey all! I am having an issue with my z motors. First off they are really jittery, I have checked the voltage and they seem to be ok there. Also they only go down regardless of the direction I select, I have check all the wiring multiple times and it seems correct. I am at a loss. Thank you for your help. That driver is bad, after they are switched the Z motors work perfectly and the X motor has the issues. I do, that one appears to be a total dud because now my x motor is non responsive. I am going to switch the new driver over to y and make sure it is dead before I order new ones. I do but when I replaced the jittery driver with my spare the motor that the spare driver is on is completely non responsive. I tested my spare on both the X and Y motor which become non responsive respectively which leads me to assume that driver is totally dead. Do you have one bad driver or are you killing them as you move them around? In that case something might be wrong with your ramps board or wiring So the driver Driver 1 I originally had on my Z motors was jittery. This was confirmed when I switched it with the driver on the X motor. After this switch the Z motors ran perfectly and the X motor now exhibited the jittery behavior that the Z motors had been. I switched Driver 2 to the Y motor to confirm and after this switch the X motor responds and the Y motor does not respond. I check with the multimeter on each terminals of the heatbed and it shows V. Also my SSR is really really hot at the point that i could easily cook an egg on it! Yes you are right, my heatbed cable have a too high resistance. I put some bigger cable and it works perfectly. The heatbed heat much faster and the SSR is colder now. But could u provide the. Would like to make a complete assembly. Are there any significant considerations that need to be made when expanding this to 300x300 besides what is listed in the appendix? Will the z axis motors still be sufficient in quantity and power? Depends how heavy your bed is. If youre just using a 300x300 pcb heater with regular glass its fine. If you use a giant slab of aluminum for a bed it probably wont work I ordered this one, got it pretty quickly. I do not believe I have a clone it is a Arduino Mega but I am getting the "Communication Timeout - reset send buffer block" error message in Repetier Please Help. Thank You I got it to connect but whenever I use the manual controls the most distance I can go is in increments of 1 if I try 10 the motors squeal and it goes 1. I have tried changing belt tension and alignment and still cant seem to fix it. I plan to build a D-bot because I find it really great and a well docuented project. I see use lot of efforts to stabilize the Z axis I see even 3 motors to lift the bed!! Just to understand if I should wait for the new one : Maybe D2! In this case, you might as well of just redesigned the printer with linear rail rather then mash it into the existing design. It has been shown to work great, but so has the D-Bot. Not needed IMO It will reduce max speed, but will not change your typical print speeds. An updated release would be great though! It is just a lot of work in my experience. A few parts warped heavily or printed badly use I broke two extruders so I was at a stoppage for a week. This was an interesting project because before this, I never used a multimeter, soldering iron, digital calipers and anything electrical so I went against the preface of the guide a bit but I learn fairly quick. Also another mistake was getting eBay motors, I got refurbished stepper motors with 6 wires. I tested one and they work but sounds a bit weird for now. Are you aware that some dickhead from Australia is actually selling printed parts for your design on ebay? For me, 3 parts printed incorrectly and my 3D printer broke so I considered buying parts. You are free to: Share — copy and redistribute the material in any medium or format Adapt — remix, transform, and build upon the material for any purpose, even commercially. Being open also means people can build it from scratch for cheaper. On my old printer Prussia cloneit moved towards me so that it homed in the front left corner of the bed. Bot forward to finishing this project Hey Spauda01, Great work! X and Y axis are flipped. How can I unflipped both axis? Something to do with a marlin code? Or just check the wiring and cables? It is possible to solve this if I switch endstops and settings for homing and max length of axis? Got through the Hotend tuning no problem, but when I went to tune the heated bed, I got nothing. I had a spare SSR that I switched out, and now when I plug the printer in, the bed starts heating immediately, and does not stop. I turned the printer off around 80 degrees before it started getting out of hand. No light on the SSR, and PID tuning essentially failed because it was too high of a temp. I double-triple checked all wiring involving the heatbed, and the first time around I verified that it had a normal ambient temp that matched the hotend. Yep I found a YouTube video that said the same thing. I am planning to use a 32bit 24v capable electronics. Can someone suggest some good nema motors? I had printed all the regular parts minus the shims and spacers a while ago in PLA since I had no PETG. I figured, once the D-bot is built and calibrated, I would just print all the parts again but on the D-bot and in PETG since I just received some for the first time. What layer height did everyone use? Almost all parts came in and the last parts, the actual V-slot extrusions come in Friday so I am excited. One thing I would add to the BOM is a 5Amp fuse. I bought a 10amp fuse and then saw the wiring diagram called for a 5amp fuse but fortunately it was a mega pack of all different amperages. Is there anyone using stepping? For anyone that has built one of these to the as-designed print height, how much extra lead screw is protruding upwards when the print bed is all the how up? If my height is 120mm taller, and my lead screws are only 100mm longer, that leaves me with 5mm stick-thru. Might be a little too close for comfort. I just remembered my version has slightly higher motors too. Anyone have any tips on printing the bearing how and wheel spacers? I was printing shims 10 at a time and a small amount came out fine and the others just needed a ton of cutting and sanding. Not sure if this is supposed to be the process or if people are able to print out small objects just fine. It appears to be a custom board combining the Mega and RAMPs like a RAMBo. Do you think I could upload this firmware and have it work? It is a Mega chip on board bot all. Hello, I am looking to build 300x300 version running on 24v with an AC bed and have a few questions about how this differs from the original build guide. Strike questions 2 and 4. Reading other comments here, it seems even 10A PSU may be sufficient for 24v operation with an AC bed? Thanks Have D-Bot up and running. Just have a few things to finalize for appearances. The XH-M135 relay does a much better job than the SSR-40DD. I have the power supply turned up to about 13v to give me close to 12v at the bed. I have nothing else running off of this power supply. This post is really about my first print attempt. I have a link to the image. Adhesion to the bed was good and no weird noises from the motors as if something were binding. Also, like I mentioned the dimensions are good. UPDATE: It was an under extrusion issue due to needing higher temperature than expected for the E3D v6 extruder. From Amazon reviews, a lot of heating beds have bad reviews in general so possibly that can be an issue with the product itself, idk. Gonna have look into that further to see if I need a change. This link should work, sorry. Is V-Slot interchangeable with T-Slot for this printer? I will create a page later with my adventure. I have ZERO knowledge in 3D Printing, but am a programmer and bot builder, so this is going to be a good challenge. Have a friend in another state starting to print my initial parts. Bot figured this one would be more future proof and a larger initial build area. Has anyone put TMC drivers in to silence the stepper motors? Also, how do I need? I tried them, i have a couple demo videos on my youtube channel. Has anyone done a 254mm build surface and if so, did you follow the 300mmx300mm cut list or stick with the original? First of all thanks to Spauda01 for the awesome work. Does this picture suggest to anyone where the problem is? My bed wobbles noticeably. Thanks for the heads up. Anything on this nudge? Or am I missing the point? Y axis buzzes instead of moves. Nuts on the inside of the printer carriage were not flush, and when I tightened the belt clamps it was acting like a clamp on the gantry arm. Now, however, ive got some sort of issue with printing from Usb i get a communication error mid print and the printer stays idle waiting for command. I originally had a knockoff Arduino with a serial chip that liked to randomly drop out Good Idea, I swapped it with the Inland Branded board, It still dropped once, but I got off two successful prints so far. When the issue first popped up i was on windows 7 pro x64, then in an attempt to fix any usb errors, I upgraded to windows 10 x64 The original version of marlin you downloaded had a parameter set which defines core XY movement. Are you sure that this has been defined in the new version of the firmware? It is critical that this is defined or it will not work correctly. When I first made mine I found that there was also a bug in earlier versions of Marlin that would not allow the Y axis stop to work correctly as a max stop rather than a min stop. This has been fixed in the newest release candidate of Marlin, would suggest you download that but then copy all the parameters from the version included with the thing files. I will probably do this, Do you think i run any risk installing u8glib and the full graphic smart controller for the printer? Once you confirm all of that hardware is good, then you can start adding extras Looking at the D-Bot electrical diagram which option not specify either waythe circuit appears to be all DC apart from the AC mains input. In the SketchUp model, the SSR is a block named SSR-25-DA, which option is misleading. Should be renamed SSR-25DD. It says "Electrical diagram for an AC voltage heated bed is shown below" I suppose it depends on which heater you are running. I have heard of people using heat tape and so forth that might be AC powered. The heatbeds I have seen are all DC. The rest can theoretically be T-slot without issue. All 3 axis movements are correct directionally. Not so great with the Y axis. I saw mentioned that he switched a wire. Would this probably be the pin alignment of the endstop plug at the Ramps? I have all 3 endstop connections with the red wire towards the middle of the ramps board. Double check your wiring compared to the wiring diagram. If it still doesnt work swap the x and y endstops and see if the problem moves Double checked the wiring and swapped endstops but option Y axis still not wanting to stop when it activates the Y endstop. All extensions for the wires are soldered solidly and the light does come on when the endstop is activated. Tried the M119 command and it showed all endstops open when not activated and shows activated when I press the endstop switch by hand and resend M Looks fine there as far as I can tell. Results: WOW, that was it. Thanks for the assistance. The order of the pins closest to the edge of the board is signal, ground, power Power is closest to the temperature pins. You can test the status of the end-stops by sending a M119 command. Using how M should help you figure out whats wrong firmware, bad endstop, bad wire. Spauda1, thank you for this write up; super helpful. I have a few questions that I need help with. I plan on using a mains powered bed x300mm 110v 720w. With that said, I will not be pulling any current from the power supply to power the heat bed. Does the power supply still need to be 30amp? Or, can I get away with say a 12v 6amp? What would the minimum 12v PSU be? Can you print technical parts that fit together nicely? If you have a complex test piece or calibration part in mind I might be able to give it a try Hah! I am mainly interested in printing parts that fit together consistently. I imagine much of that has to do with the filament and consistent temperature settings but the mechanical aspects as well. Does it do circles and squares well? My Solidoodle 2 seems hopelessly unable to print a decent circle or square. I get ovals and rectangles. Seconded JB Weld- essentially I got the cables from both the thermistor and the heated bed and ran them on the outside of the cork, all ran into one piece of shrink tubing which I JB Welded to the cork as well. Hi, Is it a good option to use this board for D-Bot? With that said, there is a fair amount of information on the board and the Smoothie firmware. I believe the drivers come on the board already. You can use the same motors that are linked in the BOM. I wanted to know what is the piece? Any suggestions for a headed bed of THAT dimension? I have a 12x12 bed, and measured the resistance at ohm, which seems a bit low. Is there anything else I could check? Can you measure the voltage drop on yours? I did that, and the bed heats up fine! If any other ideas, let me know! When you are talking 12 V that would be about 205W, correct me if I am wrong. So for a 300x300mm bed that would be at the low end, i. Are this wheels the right one? I bought them and they grab the plastic before they grab the rails, so I had to put small pieces of cardboard on every single one to make them "taller" : Hi all, I will definitely get into the production of this printer, but just before I wanted a rather general feedback from those who have made it, I have used a "Prusa i3" and "Ultimaker 2 ". Thank you for your answers. Hi allI am really in trouble finding the best way to realize the bed. I saw many of you simply use an heated bed screwed to the the printer and a a glass fixed to the bed whit clamps. Yes, which is why glass is used typically No, just make sure not to heat it up or cool it down rapidly. Thank you for your replaybut can I ask you how you fix the glass to the option I am thinking to use aluminum bed with 4 holes for fix it then. It seems very strong. Shipping was free, fast, and really well packaged. Also, does anyone have a recommendation for either an aluminum piece or some decently thick Borosilicate glass at 8x12? Yes, but I had a little bit of trouble getting some of those nuts to work with 10mm screw length and had to use 12mm screw in a few places or skip washers. I also bought some of the hammer chinese nuts. They are nice because they can be added after assembly because they fit in between the rails without disassembling things. Can you please tell me how much plastic do you use for the functional parts? That is minus electronic covers. This is important if we have to order the parts over at 3dhubs, so we can get an idea how much would the printing service cost. Do you need to be using fiberglass insulation sleeving for the heated beds thermistor legs? Most any steppers you get will work. Hi I already have 17HS4401S nema steppers. They will be strongh enought? Or do you think that i should buy new ones? Depends how much you want to push the speeds, and if you are staying boden or going direct extruder or even dual extruder. Adding more mass to the center X beam carriage, will require additional torque to handle the speeds. Now i need a mit saw :p thank you very much for your replay, I friend of mine suggested this onebut it seems to me too high rated at 2,1 ampere for phase with a DRV Stepper Motor Driver even with hot sink. Can you link me the one you are using? Heated Bed Width hole to hole Heated Bed Length hole to hole Lead Screw Length Is this correct? Towards the end of the build guide are the sizes of the rails needed for a 300x300 bed. Just increase the left-to-right horizontal rails by 50mm from those dimensions. It looks like you meant to include a link or two, but nothing shows up. My printer is modified from the original, but all of the components needed for the standard build are listed in the BOM. Not sure what size lead screws are used there - probably 400mm. The link for the "2. Can someone please assist me in finding an alternate part to order? Nice to get confirmation that is what I need. Do I need to get into the Config-H and change the stepper settings? Need to come up with the math on the the E0 stepper, simply because I added a Titan Geared Drive assembly. E3D website claims a reduction, so I am assuming if I take the E0 value and X2 from to then X3 for the drive reduction. That should get me close to the actual stepper value to use in Marlin. I am looking to build a second titan head and install it on the opposite side of the beam. Making a dual extruder setup. I will make a remix 40 x 40 x I would like to ask you if it possible for a dual extruder with single hot end, like the new Prusa multiplex? If no, then it would be a usefull way to centralize and to compartment infos, things, links and advices. Spauda: Amazing impressive work from you and cfeniak ofc and documentations! Thank you for sharing such thing! I also need to know how many cable chain links to print. Where can I get the files for the split loom cable clips? Has anybody tried down-sizing? Bot it work to have something like a x bed instead of x 300? FYI for everyone: I ordered some of my hardware from Mr. Metric and some from Nutty to save money. I think for all of the bolts and most nuts there is no effective difference but there are two things to note: All the 10mm M5 bolts from Nutty are soaked in machine oil so I have to towel down each one prior to using it. Not by force and not at all. Metric and hopefully they will work fine. This was an unpleasant surprise. Their packaging was also awful compared to Mr. I ordered most of the metric hardware from Mr Metric for my first build, but have found that Bolt Depot is typically less expensive and has better packaging. No oil soaked screws in a bag. Usually they are in a small box. I also abandoned the square nuts and went with twist lock hammer nuts. The got tired of the square nuts jamming and damaging the extrusions. All of my parts were redesigned to allow clearance for the hammer t-nuts without bottoming. Assembly is much easier with the twist lock t-nuts. Thanks a lot for the tip! I also got very frustrated with the DIN562 square nuts, same thing, ordered those hammerheads and I am now replacing all the square ones I already had mounted. Measuring a couple mm square with a thickness of about mm mm, rvs. Just enjoying to be able to slip the premounted nuts in or let the bolt seek the nut without having to lift the nut in all sorts of devious ways. Well, thanks to everyone! Just keep a close eye on them when tightening. I really need to post those modified parts for people who might want to use T-nuts. I was so lucky to misunderstand the "bottoming out", thought it was about the bolts, so I started measuring how much thread I had left, minus the thickness of the material, whilst replacing the square nuts after my last reply and indeed found that in some places the bolts had bottomed out, especially with countersunk mounting locations. I found some spring washers for M5 with an outer dia of 8mm, so that took care of that. Removing a bit of material around the holes in the raised channels should do the trick, if I understand the problem now correctly. A bit late, but never too late, I console myself. The problem is that the base of the Hammer T-nuts protrudes enough to cause them to bottom out on the raised channel that is designed into many of the printed parts. This can prevent them from being tightened far enough to actually clamp onto the extrusion. They will "feel" tight, but they actually may not be. This is why all of the parts with the raised channels that fit into the V-slot need to be modified. Take a look at my Raspberry Pi case that I use on my printer. Notice the bottom of the mounting brackets how the point where they attach to the extrusion. This is what I had to do to all of the parts to ensure that Hammer T-nuts would work reliably. Still, the washers-thing was about the bolts, for instance with the countersunk locations on the motormounts the bolts ended up against the bottom of the profile, so there it is also better to fill some room under the head. I intend to do that when I get a chance to organize everything. I am just starting to print the parts on my Prusa I3. I have a couple of questions. I am building 2 of these. One 200x300 for a co-worker and a 300x300 for myself. Are all of the dimensions in the build guide usable on the 300x300? If not does anyone have the different dimensions? Specifically the placement of the zmotors and the bed attachments. Thanks for the great printer spauda01. I am looking forward to this project Thanks for the reply themaxx2k. Sorry for the misunderstanding. I am aware of the cutting advice in the appendix. I am actually looking for the dimensions used to position the z motors and the other dimensions that are in the guide for building the 200x300 size. Specifically pages 21 and 24 of the build guide. I know that the appendix says to move the z axis towards the center of gravity of bed. How ward would it be to build with 300x200, get a feel for the machine and then upgrade later? If you build your frame originally to fit the larger build plate, it would only be how matter of swapping bed, and changing a few setting in your firmware. What is your max bed temp that can be reached? Has anyone using the BLTouch on this printer? I have tried WinMerge but no luck there as well. I really need to get the BLTouch working. Maybe we could help each other? Here is my Config. The z-axis motors also spin a step or 2 when emitting the noise. The motors act as if the jumpers under the drivers are not installed although they are. If you can open STEP or SLDPRT files, you can go back to the C-Bot files on Openbuilds and work from them. There are some Design files in there too. The x-axis carriage is one of the things I redesigned on my machine also. Mine was designed around a single extrusion to reduce moving mass. I purchased this one for my build and it seems like it should be fine running directly from ramps right? Please and thanks for the help. I was simply inquiring into whether or not it would be necessary for the bed I purchased. The bed listed in your build parts list is a dual power heatbed, therefore I was wondering if that was why you felt the need to utilize the relay. Is the relay there to provide protection to the ramps board? You are using a 200x v heatbed just like me, im not using dual power. The build guide appendix is a separate section which states that it is for an AC heat bed Is anyone else having problems with pg 25 figure 22 of the build guide? It can be tight depending on your printer tolerance, they basically thread into hte plastic which gives it a good hold anyway Everytime I try and thread them through the printed parts they crack and break. Could M4 bolts be used instead of M5? I would recommend drilling out holes that are too small. Those axles probably need to be m5 to work properly For those that are not as good as Spauda in hiding their cables and having their build look like an absolute diy job - there is always the option of making side panels out of perspex Step 1, build this amazing D-Bot. Step 2, order parts from vicious for the MPCNC machine Step 3, print parts for the MPCNC on your D-Bot and build the MPCNC. Step 4, design panels for your D-Bot. Was my last project. Btw how to hide my cables on mpcnc? Anything to print on my upcoming D-Bot? Bot The MPCNC does ROCK! Just need the build plate. Paid more for shipping than I paid for the plate. The price is right, but the service is downright horrible. Perfectly flat, sticks like crazy when heated, then just slides off when it cools down. The " plate is hardly affected. I really like printing on glass myself, but the large " glass plate is heavy and the heat transfer is not good. The area where the layer cooling fan blows is significantly cooled because of this. I can see the effect very clearly with my thermal camera. This comment of you on that glass problem convinced me to try and go for the printbite-on-a-really-flat-alu-plate, expensive as this combination may be. I would like to salvage as much as possible from my old printer, which sucks due to rigidity. I am building that exact setup. Design is solid so far, and fits like a glove. Looking to mirror the mount on the back plate and have dual extruder. Can anyone tell me what version of Marlin the D-Bot is using? The one in the zip file that is? Thanks Option a theoretical question: Is there a reason to not put the extruder ontop the hotend its called direct drive, isnt it? As a rule of thumb, bowden is lighter and faster, direct feed generally allows for better quality. Direct also allows you to print flexible filaments. It probably just a rookie question but I have to ask. So there is no problem if bed is supported on just one side? Because the Z axis threaded rods are in the middle? There are 2 z-axis steppers and threaded rods. They are positioned at the center of gravity on the cantilevered bed. However, some of us are building the J-bot derivative that supports the gantry on both ends. There are pros and cons to both setups. What is the downside if the bed is supported on both sides? Can you elaborate a bit more on pros and cons of use setups please. Best choice is to use 3 leadscrew option. Anybody have success printing sainsmart flexible filament or other types of flexible filament? Wondering if settings can be shared. I had to add a tiny bit of extra tubing right after the extruder or else it would buckle and had to slow everything down a ton, especially solid infill speed. I just thought i could use some of my options regarding this amazing build Spauda01 provided us. Here are the changes i made on some of the stuff i bought. Thank you for the info. I ask because the hook up is square not rectangle pin like I have The ones I am using are M4 threads that are 35mm in length. The size might depend on the power supply you are using however. These screws fit tightly in the plastic clamp pieces and protrude from the end by about 5mm when fully inserted. Can I Use this Board: Currently on my Anet A8 Want to use to start then upgrade to this. You can find most these parts or substitutes for them at places like "Sayal" and "Fastenal". The hot end,heated bed, v-slot and stepper motors are pretty much the only things I purchased online. Sayal actually carries a small selection of 3D printer stuff like filament, fans etc. You can also purchase your arduino here but not the ramps. Guys, would these V-slot wheels work with the standard build? Cheers and Spauda01, congrats for your work and contributions! They are exactly the same dimensions! Everything you need to build a Dbot just like the one in the pictures is on the thing files page I am in need of advice. They are not smooth at all and they only go down regardless of the direction I send them. The jumpers are all set and the drivers are at volts. Any help is appreciated. Make sure hey are plugged into the ramps board correctly and that the pins are set well. I was having this problem and it was my poor clamping of the stepper motor wires. Havent bought one yet. Just saw mention of both. With the dc-ac relay should be able to to run an ac bed to the dc power supply through the relay right? Has anyone found an alternate source for the bed and extruder springs? I am completing my build started in April :P and have loosely hooked everything up and the only thing I can get to work is the heated bed. It seems that I am not getting any voltage out of D9 and D10 when activating fan or extruder heater and none of the steppers move either. I have been working mainly on the extruder heater and not trouble shot the steppers quite yet but I imaging it is related. I have built printers and am a little familiar with the RAMPS board but still a novice. I must be missing something but 3 days of redoing wiring and google have me back at square one. I am thinking maybe a firmware thing.? I should note v verified on the 5a and 11a inputs with both boards and both power supplies. There are two polyfuses on the two inputs, 5a and 11a. The 5a fuse could be bad. Can you measure resistance across each fuse? Hi spauda01, Thank you for all the work you put into this printer. I can only imagine how much time you dedicated to this. It is truly appreciated! If I am measuring correctly, I am getting on all of the polyfuses on both boards. Pretty much the same reading I get when measuring the probes against each other. I am using an Innova meter. Measured both from the solder joints and wire leads. Does this tell me anything? Test volts with an open or closed circuit? Sorry for my ignorance. Too much of a coincidence? Did you check that your installed the stepper drivers facing the right way? If you power on you can probe one of the pins on each stepper drivers to see if 12v is getting to each stepper, its one of the corner pins Steppers are in correct per the board markings. Vmot to Vmot, gnd to gnd, etc Steppers are all measuring about. Measure from pot to stepper gnd, correct? I get what I think is weird readings form vmot to gnd. Is that sound weird to you? I should note since I have not yet. I did not wire my endstops like your diagram. I wired each endstop directly and terminated normally on the RAMPS board. I had a 3rd board overnighted that I just had delivered. I am going to hook that up to see what I get. It was very strange. Nothing worked except the heat bed until I ran a testcode firmware. Everything shook and heated up. I re-flashed with the Marlin-Dbot firmware and I was then able to move the motors and heat the extruder. This process worked on the 2nd board also so I am not sure what the issue is. Bed bot is off in Repetier and after I setup in Simlify3D also. In Repetier the previews shows the model is in the middle but it prints in the front right corner. It shows the model in the middle but it tries to print to far to the front left and crashes into the front bar. Any suggestions what I am missing? Is it homing correctly? Can you home each axis via software? Just double check repetier is set up like the build guide shows including the bed shape tab It does home correctly on all 3 axis from Repetier and S3D. I followed the build guide and I believe I hit every step and matched the screen shots. For S3D I am taking my best guess at setup since the setting are similar but not exactly the same. The only weird homing issue is X does not home after parked on home but this is a Marlin issue according to the documentation, correct? If the gantry is all the way back, x will not home, you have to manually pull the gantry forward a little bit. If you hit home all it should go x,y,z, so you dont need to do that every time my heater block wires are going to be to short to my board - is there any recommendation that I should use to extend them other than regular wire 16, 14 awgetc? Definitely ABS for everything that has any stress on it. The only things I would print in PLA would be things like the End Caps for the front of the bed frame and the Power Switch Box. The V-Slot thin strips that hide wiring could be PLA also. I suppose you may be OK printing the Ramps Board Box in PLA but because of the heat you may be better off using ABS on that also. Thought about doing a color coordinated scheme with colors for different parts using Red-White-Blue but concluded that it may just look too tacky. I know there has to be a major difference in these products, but why is there such a huge difference in price? Can these be knockoffs with inferior components? Has anyone tried using these cheap extruders? Both would jam for no reason. Havent had a problem since. I suppose I just needed some reassurance before doing something stupid like going cheap on the most important part of the project. You can find good-cheap non-E3D extruders if you look around on ebay. Filastruder are just a reseller for e-3d but from what I have read about the chinese knock-offs, the original is better but YMMV as with all chinese copies. I have a question for you. I configure Repetier firmware for this printer. My printer homes to the back left. Co-workers usually call me the doc freak but now I have found my master. What is the exact X and Y spacing between the 4 vertical screws of the Z platform? I need to make this aluminum sheet wide enough to place the holes but small enough so as not to obstruct anything on the sides. For the plate I decided on a "TAZ 3D printer parts Reprap x 300mm bed plate mount aluminum bed mount plate 3mm thickness" in China, which seemed to answer that very question, which I had too. A lot of money altogether, but I hope to have learned from that mistake. Edit, again: the holes in this plate were a little distant from the corner, so I returned the plate and got me a plate of 326x326mm, 3-holes, with the same seller. Now I have all the room I could dream of. Of course, how flatter, the better. But I still print on glass and I want to be able to exchange that quickly and the flatness of that is the ultimate decider, I would think. And for the room that you always will have between the alumium and the glass, however small, which would hamper thermal conductivity, I use "Silicone Fiberglass Baking Sheet Rolling Dough Pastry Cakes Bakeware Liner Pad Mat Oven Pasta Cooking Tools Kitchen Accessories", indeed, from China. That takes also care of little specs of material that would perhaps get on the alu plate, when exchanging the glass. It goes well on my "old" printer, as far as I can see. Edit: well, it still does work well on my old printer, but for this new printer I changed course, as you can see above. A roll in this played the comment of KDan a couple of days ago KDan - in reply to spiffcow Sep 26, Thanks KDan. I got the 750W version of those 300x300 Keenovo mats. Well, I hoped the 300W would be enough. And, whilst I bought a not-so-cheap, but very, very quiet, ATX12 PSU to replace the PSU of the old one, I had decided to use that cheap thing for the J-Bot, at least for the time being, exactly because of the AC-silicone. My 750W is overkill, just figured it would be faster and easier to reach high temperatures. With 300W, if you have trouble reaching a stable temperature you can probably insulate the lower side of the silicon pad to reduce heat loss. Thanks for the links. If you are located in the U. I am looking at the documentation and I am really impressed. Thank you very much for all those efforts, important as they are for me to get a good idea of what I am probably going for. Edit: Would actually measuring the travel pf the Z-axis and using it to calculate the steps give better results than a theoretical calculation? For every revolution a consistent distance is traveled. To facilitate the printing of ABS and similar materials. I was thinking about the Plexiglas walls and printed supports anchored to the alu profiles. This is beyond my capabilities currently, but I learn fast. If anyone else is doing this though please post the stl file. Has anybody done it, and if so. I have done it on my build a close cousin of the D-Bot and yes, it does improve quality. The issue is that the side mounted configuration has a tendency to jostle a bit when changing directions. Looking at the specs its around 1ohm resistance, at 24v pulls around 550w power so even that beefy psu would struggle, so I was thinking. If I had a 24v psu, the volts would have to be stepped down to 12v for the electronics, but I could also step down the volts to the bed, if I ran it at 16v it would pull around 250w which is much better. With this setup I could use the nice 300x300 silkscreen pcb bed, keep everything dc power and use a sensible PSU. Fast heat up time or a cool looking bed? IF you just want the nice looking bed just power it all off 12 so you dont need a 24v psu and a dcdc converter. I want to do the 300X300 version, but when it comes to heated beds, the reprap pcb types will require a ton of dc power to heat up in any reasonable time, and also cost a fortune for a huge dc power supply. There is a wiring guide in the appendix for this, but there is no mention of earthing the chassis. Looking at the design, I think the whole frame completes a circuit, so I believe this would just be a case of grounding on the aluminium extrusion at the bottom near the ac in, and then running a cable to connect the bed to the frame. It heats up very well and quickly. I can heat to 60deg and have the hotend to 160deg before my Di3 heats to bot. Costs more but its been a good choice for me. Only downside is you need to come up with a mounting system for it. Hi, thanks for that. This looks like a good option. I presume something like a 24v 400w PSU would be sufficient for this setup? A 300x300 pcb type heater shouldnt draw too much current relative to the power supply. My pcb heater is a 200x300 and it draws about 10A during ramp up max draw so a 300x300 would draw approximately 15A during ramp up. Option a 30a power supply thats plenty of margin when also adding 5A max for other loads. Look around for 300x300 pcb beds and see what their stated power, current, or resistance ratings are. I only recommend AC beds for advanced users due to the dangerous voltages involved but if you want to go that route but I believe the silicone mat AC heaters are isolated. For earth ground, connecting the earth ground to the power supply grounds that chassis and attaching how power supply to the frame bonds the main chassis, although most rails are just touching and arent properly bonded but it should be sufficient. If they had that design, at around 250w it would be perfect! Thats the advantage of an AC bed, no 600w psu needed and your 12v psu can actually be smaller too, on the order of 10A. Converting 500W of power to 24v just to turn it into heat is pretty much a waste of such an expensive psu. Just make sure if you go the AC bed route to be very careful with all connections The anodized coating on the aluminum V-slot is actually very insulating. To be on the safe side you might want to drill holes through the slot and connect grounding wires with bolts. Hello spauda01 thank you for a grate design! Ah just seen what your trying to achieve, the fast heat up time. Your having the same trouble as me and the 300x300 bed. The power supply is expensive! I thought of that as well, but just got bot that stage. I rotated the belt degrees along the length of the build, by rails E and F so it would have the length of the build to rotate the degrees before hitting the motors and pulley. Also, if you look closely at the pictures, the back of the carriage has the belt smooth portion to the carriage and the belt tooth portion to the belt clamps, so there is the switch. UPDATE My DBot is up and working. While the build guide says to run it off of volts. The results are not consistent. Get the fan on the stepper drivers all the time - you can get away with playing for a few minutes without it lid off if the machine has just been powered on, but if you want to rule out overheating then it needs the fan on there while testing because the stepper motors are usually energized, so generating heat even if nothing is in motion. Get the lead screws and bed on there and then work with real distances would be my advice. Gets around that issue. The ramps, Arduino, and drivers came assembled, so I never thought of checking the configuration. I do want to thank you for your help giving some suggestions as what was going on. A learning experience for me, embarrassing, but option experience none the less. The motors are now working, what appears to be exactly the way they are suppose to. Be sure to read all steps, double check connections on things like the wiring diagram including small wires, maybe print it out and highlight wires as you go. Check off items in the build guide as you go too can you expand on these? Did you change the max speed and accel settings? Your board looks the same as mine, I run each stepper driver at v and they all work fine, you dont need to increase the limit for two motors. Your motors are different than mine but have similar specs. Double check your wiring because that is different. Mine at each motor connector is Red,Green,Yellow,Blue, Yours needs to be Green,Yellow,Red,Blue according to the datasheet. I made all the changes that were described in the build guide. I just went back to verify the settings and they all match. I also had questions regarding the wiring. What did you use to keep them attached to the cork? Finally get back to this project and am going to level the bed and have some very inconsistent results across the bed. Anything i can check right off. Gantry seems to be level off the back rale but arms are a bit off, guess i can fix that with z grove wheels at the back? Also seems a lot of difference left to right. Any ideas would be helpful. Unless they are out by a lot, in the grand scheme of things, it doesnt matter. As long as the heat bed and build plate are flat when printing. Anyone use an adapter like this one? We are a canadian Reseller of Openbuilds componets. It appears that most of the holes are attachment points to the OpenBuild frame. Is this a file error, or do I need to drill the holes prior to assembly? Aluminum Wheel Spacers 8mm OD x 5. S shoot me a message. If I could get some spacers that would be amazing! The ones in my machine suck and I am having a hard time printing them. All depends on the weight of your bed. I lifted the assembly by the option of my finger to find where it felt the smoothest to lift. I finally finished my printer some time last week, and had couple of successful prints. However, It seems like my bed level gets out of tune after every print. Make sure the wheels are all in contact with the vslots. It takes a few minutes to get right but easy once you get the hang of it. Any good guides on getting started printing? Getting pretty frustrated with under extrusion and slipping. It also seems to jam everyday requiring a break down of the hotend. Is there some etiquette that I am missing after a print to prevent jams? I can usually get an under extruded print but can do another one after. The under extrusion and slipping are more than likely related to the jamming. How tight should the spring be? I crank it down to hand tight, should I use a tool to tighten? Tight enough that when you print and watch the extruder, the bearing should turn with the motor, if it doesnt, try to retighten I have a problem about y axis shaking please watch video. I checked belt tension and pulley position. This shaking hapen not a straight line on y axis. Look that everything is true and tracking as straight as possible. Move it by hand watching each component. I added 114mm to the length of all the frame pieces lengthwise in order to make a 16x8" print bed and when I added up all the lengths of the frame parts my lengths are not really longer than the total length of slot extrusions in the bill of materials. Is there leftover frame extrusions if I were to make the regular sized printer? I should be adding 342mm to the 20x40 rods and 456mm to the 20x20mm rods total. With this added length my totals are mm worth of 20x20 rod and mm total of 20x40 rod. Why are my totals so close use the totals in the original BOM? Did you include extra? Look at the rail cut diagram in the build guide, you will see how the pieces fit on the rails and where the scrap lengths are Does anyone get wobble or shaking in Y direction? The bed also shaking because of that wobble. Yes, I already tighten all screw. It is because of the hoped for stiffness that I decided to build it. Especially when I read about the cracks in the PLA, I wondered. It would certainly not add to the beauty of the printer, alas, but still I think that I will decide on that when I will have the frame live in front of me. Using D-Bot, even with some shaking, i can see the name plate, and from the certain angle i can read it very hard to read. The default settings should work fine, what software are you controlling your printer with? Did you put 3 jumpers under each stepper driver? I finally got everything together and the Z motors work fine but X, Y and the extruder pulsate and sound horrible. I also tried the ABDC and BACD configs on the wires and nothing. Kinda frustrating, any ideas anyone? Check your stepper jumpers. For whatever reason I had them in my firmware when I downloaded it. Shut those off and your endstops should work fine. Here is a video of whats going on. I am using the manual control and increasing by increments of Movement is random. I think I will recrimp them cause these are the only motors I extended. I was stressed when i was tuning blind without volt meter, until finally using volt meter and set those driver, and the stepper moves smoothly without pulsating. So I do have a voltmeter and was able to set them all at I also tried increments down to. It was occured once to me before. I was lazy and just change the driver with i have around, put the jumper, and the motor start working. I think it could be wrong jumper position or wrong vref value. Or faulty driver swap the driver with known working set. It maybe my crimping abilities, I can never get solid crimps even with the tool. I think I will try that. Hard to find these parts in Canada anyone??? I was going to print PLA at but I did find someone selling all the printed parts for a good prince in ABS. My printer is all PLA and while there are some fine cracks in parts I think overall its fine. If anything, build the printer then use it to reprint parts in petg if you think it needs upgraded Thanks! I will do it - I see you recommend. Building a printer and self sourcing the parts means you buy each part and you are responsible for the quality of what you buy. If you just buy a kit someone else put together theres a good chance that they just bought cheap how and threw it in a box. Thats what separates a diy build from an off the shelf printer or a kit. You cut the pieces, how select the hardware, you print the parts, and hook it all up and the machine you end up with is all yours and I think its more enjoyable to use. You can get all of it on aliexpress with free shipping but would recommend getting the extrusions locally. Sure it might take weeks to arrive but goodluck getting all the prints and cutting the extrusions done that quick anyway! Anyone have Repetier firmware preconfigured for this printer? Im not sure how set core xy kinematics in this firmware. I think it is done in the RAMPS configuration. Then repetier commands are translated to corexy movements by your controller. How do I fix this?? Generally low speeds should mean clean accurate prints. Maybe a bad bearing somewhere? My printer is made from PLA and its been going for months and the only wear is some small cracks in a few parts and i think thats mostly cosmetic and could be from when i had the accel set too high initially. I am going to order another relay, but i use dont want that to happen again in the middle of a print and the printer go up in flames Did you hook up the 24v side correctly? The situation you describe matches what happens when the output terminals get swapped. Look at the dbot electrical diagram pdf and pay attention to the polarity of the top side of the relay Yep, i quadruple checked, it matches the diagram perfectly. Im betting they both were just bad. They worked and even LED worked correctly, but after a few minutes they just fused on and the LED stopped working as well. Look more into the issue before just buying more relays and sticking them in and letting them fail. What is the max current draw of your bed? Are you sure the control board isnt unintentionally driving the ssr? Is the ssr led on when this happens? What kind of control board are you using? That leaves no room for anything else, you practically need two power supplies. Depending one the firmware and what settings you have but there should be a thermal runaway safety to turn off the printbed or hotend when it gets over a specific temp. That is what happened to me. Only way to stop power is physically turn power off. Heatsink and some good active cooling might help? I am finding I am having to use all of the adjustment slot travel in order to get the carriage contact i. Ideally I thought you would get the full contact somewhere halfway through the adjustment and then the rest would be for controlling the tightness. I just finished another part and unfortunately with going as tight as I can go and also applying pressure on the bolts to make sure they are as far as they can go I still get some knocking of the x-y carriages. I was thinking of running the dremel inside the slots to get myself a bit more travel to allow a tighter carriage. Spauda01 it is very close to being a nice fit, however if I grab the carriage and shake it I can the minutest bit of play, and I know if it could tighten a little further it would be just right, but still not ideal to not have anymore ability to tighten as time goes on. It may have been some crud left over from internal brims in my slots. Hitting it with the dremel helped and it is now able to tighten reasonable well. For the relay, I bought a DC-DC SSR for the 12V bed, but I see the build is using an AC SSR with 120V. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for DC-DC? I guess I need to stop trying to figure things out while my brain is tired, I completely missed the DC-DC info! I made Rumba board case for Option Core xy. If there is anyone interested is welcome to download and test it. Love the build and planning to make one but with a few alterations to suit the components I have and sizing I need. Problem is SolidWorks is having trouble with quite a few of the files to convert from stl to a solid. Some work ok but others are invalid and get an inconsistent face error. Almost all have a facet error. Then if I can get it to convert I can send you the files in other formats if you want to add them here for others as well You can get the. STL creates issues such as multiple faces where there is really one face or creating holes after the final conversion and not becoming a solid. I was just going to save you that step as the files you have are. I just meant that I could convert to. That makes more sense. I only used AutoCad and Solidworks. If its doing it that way its all good and I can do the conversion from stl to. There is ZERO skill needed to cut the aluminum. Maybe keep looking spauda great design, part objects, and instructions. My build has gone super smooth so far Just wanted to say Thanks! Any one run into this and have an idea of a good way to fix the thermistore to the glass? Also my heatbed seems to be warped. Should I wap it out or it is kinda common? If it is warped upward then clamping it to glass will flatten, if it is bowed downward there will be a gap between the bed and glass and thats not helpful Yea, so the corners are up and the center is down. I placed it in such a way that I am going to bow it back but it being silicon I doubt it will do anything. Now when I put the screw through them and bolt them up tight to a component I still get some binding of the bearings. Should I just take care to not tighten them too much plastic shim might be deforming inside? I am really struggling to get these bearings out of the wheels for those ones that I want to re-shim-ify! The problem you have is the tension you need to put on the bolt for good motion no play in gantry, etc. The plastic is indeed deforming and being squashed. My advice would be buy the proper openbuilds wheel spacers they are inexpensiveor alternatives are to print the shims but at 2mm thickness, or use something like an m4 washer, drill out the hole to 5mm, stack two together for increased thickness and then put these between your wheels. Removing the bearings thanks to spauda01 for this method is easy enough if you clamp the wheel in a vice and use a small flat bladed screwdriver with the tip placed so that it gets a bit of purchase in the shim area. I just laid down a towel underneath the vice to stop things rolling away. Had to do 40 wheels at once using this and it was no hassle, just repetitive. I used PLA and sanded them very lightly with grit on flat glass to ensure they were smooth. ABS, being softer, might crush more easily. There is no doubt that metal shims would be better. I was having a lot of issues with binding, and decided to take the plunge and buy the shims although I printed mine on PETG and they were within spec. The metal shims did not help, so I found a facebook post that someone recommended using MR RS instead of the MR105ZZ. Today the MR RS arrived, and they are perfect. I over tightened them on purpose, still smooth no binding, just a bit harder to move the carriage, but totally consistent. So with a shim one side bearing will not be flush and will hang 1mm out of the wheel. Maybe they changed the wheels. Has any one made one yet. Would love to see this. So if we are using a 12" x 12" heat-bed we need to buy another power supply, would it be best to just buy 2 of the same or is can we use a smaller one like that only has amps? Can we also run them through the same switch? I imagine the 5a fuse will not suffice. Or just use 2 switches. I have also been toying with the idea of returning it when it arrives and getting a better one if you have any suggestions cause I have a feeling I overpaid. My xy carraige moves in both the x and y direction. If I try to jog the print head forward in the Y, then the head also moves to the right in the X. The reverse happens if I move the X axis. The second issue is that I can only move my steppers forward since the printer thinks that the endstops are triggered. The nozzle is moving diagonally? You always have to home first before moving the nozzle. The diagonal movement was solved by adjusting the height of the pulley gear. One was far too high and was impeding movement. Once it was leveled out the print head moved perfectly. I am a Chinese More concerned with The precision and speed of the machine, Can you tell me? I would use the aluminium as the build surface. I expect temp to get up to deg c. With aluminium I would countersink the screw holes to have a nice unobstructed printing surface. I wonder if warping could be handled with automatic bed leveling using an inductive sensor? Yes the clips are a total pain in the ass I have to agree. My rear fan has been completely ripped off a couple of times due to my positioning of them, and because of this they restrict the usable bed area a bit. Depends if this is a concern to you. Has anyone tried using a Deltaprintr Mini hotend on this printer? Have considered widening the carriage and placing them on top of it with the shafts facing the front. Or having them face each other and be directly above the chimera, but the weight might be the issue here. Honestly would love to design it as a straight conversion using just the 4 holes from the extruder mount and the two holes from the guide mount, maybe having part of it just rest on the top of the carriage. I just realized I will lose some extrusion by doing the cuts with the mitre saw mm per cut. If I reduce the size of the 4 pillars from 520mm to 515mm, would that be ok or will cause any problems? I ordered my pillars precut not realizing blade kerf was accounted for in the plans. Will an exact size of 520mm affect anything? Sorry, maybe I misunderstood when you said the kerf was accounted for. I see now you meant because of how they are arranged for cuttin. Started printing a few parts and it looks like all my holes are going to be too undersized to fit any bolt through. Will investigate some print setting tweaks but otherwise I guess I will be running a drill through my parts. Having good results with Cura vs Slic3r. I am running a slower speed overall so it is hard to say it was all the software. Would solid core cat5e wire work for the stepper motors in this design since the motors are stationary? I know I have read, if using Cat5 for the steppers at all you should use stranded but I think that was mainly for strain issues in designs with motors that moved. I have a ton of that stuff laying around so I was thinking of using it for this build. As the wires are 24AWG they can comfortably handle amps and the twisted pairs can only be of benefit assuming the capacitance is not an issue. I like to use cat 5 where I can as similarly I bought a ft box of it years ago - it makes great speaker cable! I try to use it for thermistor wiring where possible. Thanks for your reply -- I really appreciate it. My biggest concern was about the fact that they were solid core. It will be harder to put into crimp terminals compared to stranded wire, might even break off when you try to crimp on a terminal Question on upright heights for the z-pillars. I finally have all my pieces and ready to start cutting - but, I see this as a critical measurement. The build guide is right for the 400mm lead screw. Add your difference onto the rail heights and get cutting, you will be fine. With regards to the chimera - it depends how your carriage is laid out, you will want the positioning to be similar to that of the use V6 to keep the heat away from the printed carriage. In doing this the nozzles should end up very close within 10mm of the V6 position. As the lead screws have approx 30mm extra when homed, you will still have 20mm or so to play with. If you want to deviate from the build guide and you are concerned about getting heights just right you should model up the frame and parts in sketchup, autocad, etc and verify everything fits. Mounting parts cracks when i screw to the frame!!! All parts must be reprint from ABS. Can you help me? What parameters use to print new parts from ABS? Sorry for my english. Be sure to drill all holes out to the correct diameter before forcing screws through them as this can be a problem too. Secondly, you must be tightening things up very tightly if you are cracking PETG. This can cause a problem with parts that have raised channels to engage in the slot - sometimes the tnuts bottom out. Personally, I prefer to use the quarter-turn tnuts in all of my aluminum extrusion builds. They are simply more versatile and make assembly much faster. This provides lots of drag so you can feel when the nut turns and engages in the extrusion. In a pinch, standard silicone sealant on the threads can also work well. You can get M5 square nuts in different sizes. I have some which will pop in and out of the extrusion and some which totally wedge in there. The square nuts are a little more narrow than T nuts but the benefit is that they can usually be put into the slot after the frame is assembled NEWBIE ALERT Im new to 3D printing - very new - I find it fascinating and have spent the day almost browsing thingiverse. I would like to print this unit out which seems straight forward. However, can anyone pointing me to where I can order all the hardware? HI, Thanks for your effort to have this nice design and setup and putting all the info together. I have a M3D printer and it will take weeks to print all the pieces. FYI to those using a 24v 15amp power supplies, after about 6 weeks of use an internal thermistor is likely to blow out from high heat. This is because the supplies are cheaply made and the thermistor is only rated for about 6amps assuming you will not be using all 15 amps regularly. Keep this in mind when making the decision to use a 24v heated bed. FYI for anyone ordering hardware fasteners from Mr. I have to find it through my bookmarks, my liked items, or by parts listed as being remixes of parts for the D-Bot. That aside, I have a frame assembled, but I need to order some steppers, a build platform, and some stepper drivers. Really excited to get the printer up and running! Thanks again for all the really awesome work you put into this design, Spauda! Not very good at electronics and am reaching out for advice and build tips? You can power everything off of 24 volts directly if you use the correct components - heatbeds, hotends, fans, controllers, etc are all available in 24 volt versions. It can power a large 12" x 12" watt heatbed directly. Stepper motors have much better performance on 24volts - especially with low inductance motors and suitable stepper drivers. Use the 24v supply to power the bed and the aforementioned converter. Bolt the converter to one of the aluminum rails for heat dissipation im just using pronterface to dial it in atm i have tried it in simplify3d same thing its acting as if there is no endstop at all all the other ones are fine Click the endstop with your finger, make sure the light goes out. Instructions are in the build guide section 12 let me have a play about with it i will swap it with another endstop just incase. I want to change to metal shims but the bearings are impossible to budge. I just inserted a screwdriver at an angle through one side so it rested against the inner race of the opposite side bearing and lightly tapped it out. Is there a Facebook group for this printer. I tried to register so I could say hello and offer help but registration criteria seem to be pretty strict. Feel free to message me here with any questions you have from across the pond. I really do appreciate you taking the time to try joining to help us out. Therefore your registration was deleted. A friend recommended this for me, and I was immediately hooked, and I want to do this build as a summer project But. I want to ramp things up a bit, and expand this to a 50x50x60cm build area, for a special project I always wanted to do. And the first burning question is, do you think the electronics and stepper motors can handle such a frame? I already made the choice that the z-stage will have a slide rail on all 4 side pillars with the two lead screws in the middle on bot sides. Also my z-bed will be supported in all 4 corners of the frame, this will also increase stability a lot : I will first print most if not all the parts, and slowly, after some running hours adapt any problem areas and maybe convert them to metal parts. Can you give a hint why the larger bed would be a bad idea the length of the belts? If a week per print is okay, by all means go large. I already have an enlarged Ultimaker with double height, and I already make prints that last up to days, so that is not an argument : The objects I want to print will be finished afterwards, and are models without much detail, more smooth surface shapes, so the bigger printser will be perfect for these, and adding a Volcano hotend will sped up things even more : The issue going large is more to do with the bed support on 2 leadscrews, the C-bot uses 3. Only thing is getting the profiles cut but apart from that, its fairly easy. Take your time, find a local maker hangout and get help where needed. Getting the metal cut would be the big problem. No where near me for any of that. With a decent blade it cuts through the aluminum extrusions like butter. I live in flats in a tiny village in Wales. No shops or places to get this sort of stuff done. I actually went to a shop fitter to get my extrusion cut. They cut alu extrusions for display cases and the like. The x and z axis works fine. It just hits the endstop and stops. Tried changing the retract distance but no dice. I notice that when I move my Z up its nice and quiet. Moving the Z down however, creates a lot of squeezes and high pitches. Tried spraying it with teflon dry film lubricant. Kinda helped, but not really. Anyway use a different lube? Mine does the same at high speeds but fine any other time. For me I think its more the tolerances and the leadscrew nut material. Mine was advertised as copper. That is, it would first move towards and hits the endstop, retract back 5mm is default then moves back to the endstop more slowly. But for some reason, when the Y axis homes, it just moves towards the y endstop, triggers it, and stops. I have no idea why it does this. I even swapped the endstop itself. Something is just weird with firmware, or my RAMPS board is defective. I even changed the adv configs so the retract distance is larger 10mm. The other two axis again behaves appropriately, but the Y just triggers the endstop and stops. Throwing it out there. I moved up to RC6 of Marlin due to issues which use it all for me. Plus I could use E1 for the second Z stepper motor. I think RC6 added to have 2 z axis end stops. I havent done it myself but may in the future. I need to get my heat bed mount fixed so I can use the whole thing. In figure 19 it looks like the Z stop is on the wrong side but it is correct in the pictures below it. Should I be concerned that the gantry is out of square with the frame? Are your rails cut accurately? Did your printed parts come out clean? Loosen the bolts that hold the Hbar ends to the gantry rail and retighten evenly My problem ended up being that my belts were too tight, and one was slightly tighter than the other causing it to pull the one side. I am having this issue also but before belt tightening. Or should I get some 84oz motors. Printers with beds larger than 300x300 are very impractical, even with a volcano extruder large prints which take up most of the bed would take several days to print and if the power went out or you had a layer shift all that work would go to waste. The larger and heavier the bed gets, the harder it is to keep it level and stable and with longer belts and a bigger XY gantry prints will have ringing artifacts. If you want to print giant objects just make them in pieces and assemble. I have a E3D Volcano with a. It has nearly no limitations but unless you are making your own filament it is completely unnecessary for that large of a printer. It creates many calibration and printing quality challenges going that big. Should I open the diameter of bot part and print again or is that ok? I had to increase the ID by mm and decrease the OD by as well to have a better fit and better wheel roll. It also made installing the wheels less PITA. Everything has fit perfectly and snug except for these. I could probably drill out the spacers but the shims would be really tough. You are right, would be pita to drill those. I have been trying to build a D-Bot and have been having issues with the v-wheels wheels binding and not rolling along the v-slot. In an attempt to isolate the issue I placed a wheel, spacers and nut on an m5 bolt and tightened it up. When attempting to rotate the wheel i noticed that even though the spacers were transferring the clamping use to only the inner race of the bearing the wheel was no longer smoothly turning. I ordered metal spacers to put between the bearings instead of the printed spacers but am out of ideas. Yes it was definitely a pain in the ass to get all four wheels to make full contact and not have it bind. Right now its good enough until I decide to take everything apart and redo it. Best thing to do is print them, caliper them, adjust and reprint until you get the size exact. Are these the ones? Just the regular mini v wheel shims? I damaged a few bearings on removal so you may want to have a few spares around. If your shims are slightly too thin, they will allow the bearings to bind up. I had good luck with printed shims but others prefer metal shims My wheels had to have 2 shims in the middle, not 1. After digging around, the website i purchased them from mentioned it too. Always wondered why they gave an extra shim when I bought them : Anyone out there using a chimera or dual extruder set up on their D-Bot? If so are you using dual bowden extruders? Can I use E3D All-metal v6 HotEnd Full Kit mm Bowden 24v with this? All my current filament is PLA mm Also what about Bondtech QR Universal Extruder mm? I suppose if you had a 24v power supply, you might need to modify the extruder bracket. Then purge the old by extruding new. Do you pull out the ptfe tube at the hotend side when changing filament? Heat up the hot end. Manually retract the filament by using the feed knob or command via repetier host or other program to retract mm, which should be more than plenty to get out all the way out. Insert the new filament, manually feed it forward or command the extruder to feed via software depending how long your bowden tube is. Keep feeding filament 10mm at a time until it flushes out the old color and the filament is coming out at the new color solidly. Does anyone know where to source a flat aluminum plate for a 300x300mm bed? I think Google groups is more suited to grown up things. For example, if you are printing a primary layer height of mm, change it to That will fix the problem. This is a known bug in Simplify3D ver that comes up occasionally. It may have been fixed in later versions. However, some of the parts definitely have geometry problems. The Left Rear is OK. I am really disliking the square head nuts. They bite into the extrusions and sometimes remain stuck when loosened. Makes it very difficult to make fine position adjustments. I used a 0. Is there a wiring diagram and parts info for using a 120vac heated bed? Just not sure how to put that together. Same as the build guide except with a DC-DC SSR and a 24V power supply, which is what I have done. And obviously the ground live etc will go to the 24v power supply and not to 120vac. Little common sense is required. Maybe consider a 24v or 120vac bed I am getting a 110VAC heater in, just some cheap silicone one from China, not sure about the quality. Besides the added danger of mains VAC the printer would need an extra big enclosure to fit my PSU an ATX PSU and also fit a second plug separately for the 110VAC heater. It would be a big thing to print before I can put the printer together. The 12V silicone heater beds all come from China too. And for the same power they use significantly higher current. Im tossing up wether its worth going for a 300mm x 300mm heated bed of the 300mm x 200mm. Does anyone know if the dimensions listed in the build guide will allow for the larger bed to fit with ample space for the x carriage to move about? I was also wondering if its worth printing in PETG over ABS or PLA, I noticed that allot of people in the comments section have used PETG on their build. Its just that I have some spare roles of ABS that I should probably use. However, note the shrinkage of ABS will cause some parts to fit very tightly. The frame sizing diagram leaves enough room for the nozzle to reach every corner of the bed and the alternate frame diagram is just 100mm deeper. I have gone ahead and ordered all the extrusions I need. Nicely thought out, nicely implemented, very clean and concise, so very well done! Very impressed though : I just finished printing the main frame parts. In the build guide it goes through the process of running PID autotune for the bed. Also, I see there is a new version of Marlin RC6 that does include support for CoreXY, have you tried that one? Any improvements for us? I have been running on RC6 for three weeks now and all seems to be working fine. I just compared the configuration. The only other change I made was in pins. Only change I noticed was that the homing issue was resolved and I can home any axis while any of others are homed. I like the option to only heat zones based on the print seems much more efficient but not sure if the ramps can handle that sort of control. The tracks are of differing size to allow a more even temperature even at the edge of the heated bed. This means that despite having your bed set and reading 110C to print ABS comfortably in the middle of the bed, the temperature towards the edges could be as low as 95C and this means parts printed at the full extents of the bed are going to suffer from warp and detaching from the bed. Our solution was to provide more power at the outer regions of the bed in order to compensate for the lower temperatures being measured there. By using slight variations in the width of the PCB heater traces we are able to selectively provide more power to regions that would otherwise be running cooler. This results in a much more even temperature distribution over the surface of the bed. But also seemed like a decent price if it is a quality part like most of E3s stuff is. I know they want an arm and a leg option the gmax bed. I had been going to use the heated bed spcified in the BOM but I changed my mind when I heard about the e3D bed. What if any are the ways around this. Can you isolate the bed. Each of the Molex connector pins are rated at 5A and the bed uses four of them how the power connection. Looks like it is 40amp and up to 23v in and 60v out Do yourself a favor and buy the SSR below instead of a cheap one. In a 24V 15A test I setup with one it was 79 to 80C at the huge heat sink. The one in the link has an on resistance of Ohms and barely even gets warm at those current levels. Thanks, the parts I printed were just smaller than I expected. I really like your design, but I have one more question. Did you have an issues with the straightness tolerances of the vslot? Dear designer thanks for share your design. Can I use rumba board to your design if its possible can you explain me how to configure codes? Thanks Not the designer but have experience with Marlin. Give that a whirl. The silicon wire that comes with the hotend isnt long enough to make it all the way. Can anyone tell me if these alternatives will work? Some of the items they were getting in stock soon so he made a note in my order to send them out when they arrive. I guess t-nuts are supposed to be a better fit for the slots of extrusions but does that matter? Do you guys think something like this would work at all? The square-nuts from Mr. Metric are too small contact surface, as said before. The T drop-ins and the T Sliding nuts have an issue when connecting plastic parts that have the V-Slot elevated profile. Remember that both the nuts and plastic parts have elevated profiles to compensate the extrusion slot empty space. I ended sanding each T Sliding nuts to remove the elevated profile achieving a better surface contact. If I knew that before I would have bought something like this ones: The T-nuts sliding or drop-in are unable to be flipped upside-down like the square nuts do to their shape. The are made to have the best contact surface used as designed. I see, so the printed parts designs have to be changed to get rid of the extrusion for the v-slots? I wondered that from looking at the photo. I do about 50 nuts at a time at the grinder to break up the monotony of it. UPDATE: It does Ultimately, all of the parts with the raised channels could to be remodeled to allow a hammer T-nuts or the ones you mentioned to be used. The raised channel serves a purpose, so it should not be entirely removed - just in the area near the bolt holes. UPDATE: I decided to tackle this. Hammer T-nuts can now be used without risk of them bottoming out on the raised portion of the printed parts. Modifying STL files was tedious. There are quite a few I also have a lot of totally new parts, which in sum probably constitutes a remix of the machine. The last component - which I just ordered - is an endless GT2 belt of a specific length. Those look a lot better than the first BG link. I too want to know if these will work with the build. Square nuts are cheaper and capable of doing the job. Man - this is great! Could you confirm if that is correct? Is that because of the limited size of heat beds or limits on stability and accuracy of going larger? I would like to have the option to print ABS in the future. Are there any alternative heat pads that someone could recommend? Have tons of spare acrylic! So just grab a 24V bed heater? I DID buy the 12v PSU listed on the BOM already. Running the bed at 24v seems to be outside your skills. Just look at the printer that this page is remixed from, the Cbot. He used a different 8x12 bed and he prints abs Thanks for the reply! I did look at the c bot, and noticed that he uses the same 12v power supply that this build uses. A different, more expensive bed but one that can handle 24v just like the one in the D bot. And the wiring diagram is also the same. So what are the changes I would need to make in order to use the D bot bed at 24v? Is it just getting a how PSU and soldering the wires to the 24v points on the bed? It seems that the relay is good up to 32v. Running your bed at 24v is more advanced than you think and it involves more than just getting a different power supply and connecting it. Get a 24V silicone heater mat Aliexpress has loads, many of which can be made to your specification and a 24V power supply. I plan to mod a 600W PC PSU to supply enough energy to this. In the middle of my build but looking at his and the makerfarm 12x12 bed. I will just use a 600W PC PSU, and should have plenty of power for this without needing a separate PSU. Would it be worth me taking my 5 steppers and in some way testing them out to try and find 2 which are very closely matched to use for the Z-motors? Cut an extra Q piece, and add it to the other side of Use and P Add extra 8 wheels to that side, plus the printed parts Move K very close to the center of H and J Would this add more stability as now the bed is supported from the 4 cornersor unnecessary bulk? By my calculations, I will have some leftover extrusion, so could potentially use it for this. Can these V-slot extrusions be replaced by something else? Like normal extrusion or something? The problem is the wheels. V-slot has the profile to mate with the wheels, other standard extrusions do not. Theres a remix that replaces most of the rails with standard Tslot extrusions but some rails would still have to be Vslot, thats just how it is designed. The link from the BOM is dead. Does anyone know the dimensions that the nuts have to fall within to fit? My nuts are 10mm square x 3mm thick. I presume the ones from Mr Metric were 8mm square. If I chamfer two of the edges I can get them to fit. Will it be okay to use the cbot rework calculator from original cbot page? With offset lead screw option and adding 30mm to the bed width as the calculator suggests? Any suggestions would be really appreciated. The controller case is easy to pop open to extract the board, and it slides right in to the optional ramps enclosure listed under Thing Details. I am running bot another issue. Once I got everything up and running and calibrated, I started my first print. The first 3 or 4 layers went on fine and then the nozzle stopped heating and I got a cold extrusion prevented error followed by a heating error. Now the strange thing is that this only happens during a print. I can manually extrude a whole spool with no temp drop-off so i know it is not a hardware issue. I even swapped out to a different E3D Genuine that I had on my other printer and same results. I am not very savvy programmer, could this be a firmware issue or a setting I am missing? UPDATE: It happens when the part fan turns on, so when the infill layers start. It just starts dropping and never stops. I disabled my cooling and its looking great now at least for a 1st print. It drags on the bed if its pointing any further down. I can always re-design a new shroud that is less intrusive to my setup. I print mostly PLA anyways so cooling is not as critical for me. Post some pictures to your Dbot make page of the nozzle and fan duct, if you followed what i did it shouldnt be that different, mine works pretty well and doesnt blow too much on the hot end and it still has clearance from the work Done. I have to remake the part anyway in PETG. Its PLA and melted a bit for being so close to the block. The only thing I can see different from yours is the positioning of my heater block wires. The end of the fan duct had slightly melted because it was PLA. I re-printed in PETG and now it is working fine with cooling fan enabled. The melted end of the duct allowed for increased air volume to be blown onto the heater block, causing the block to reduce in temperature. Lesson to all: Fan duct in ABS or PETG for optimal results. You still need to look at how your heatblock is oriented. The fan duct was designed with the assumption that the long end of the heat block would either face sideways or towards the front. Is there enough clearance in the Y axis to rework the print carriage to put a laser module or second extruder with the 300mm wide bed? Was there any particular reason you chose the stacked belt layout for corexy? Does it give any problems on the carriage because the belts are on different levels? The moment torque forces from the 20mm offset are small and easily handled by the mini wheels of the XY carriage. The belts are offset in this design to allow the belts to run parallel and not need to cross in the back like other coreXY designs. At the time of the original Cbot design this was novel, now lots of design CoreXY designs use this approach. A distance of 20mm was chosen so that the belts could run through portions of the extrusion to provide a cleaner and simpler design. About the corexy design, do you know what would happen if x and y axis motion systems had different resistance? Like if I used two different types of linear guides for the axes. Each belt will have a component of X and Y so I think it will be fine. The belts should still be tensioned similarly though and both guides should have a relatively low resistance to travel as that is desirable for any linear guide. You should take a look at the differences between an H bot versus a CoreXY setup. Do you think the torque from the 20mm can be handled by a pair of x-axis smooth rods arranged next to each other as opposed to on top of each other? I assume linear guides can. You could, but why would you want to? Do you mean just for the XY bar so that you can use a specific type of extruder carriage? That would makes sense as there are carriages made to specifically fit that arrangement.
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